Clingmans Dome to The Road To Nowhere

Hike #27 : October 26, 2014

20.8 miles

15.5 new miles
367.9 total overall miles

260.2 total miles of 800.8


Things started out early for this one. The alarm rang at 4am and I was up and on my way to Clingmans dome for my first (and possibly last) group hike with the Great Smokies Hiking & Adventure Group.

As I arrived a bit early, I had the chance to take in the beginnings of the sunrise. Words and pictures cannot come close to describing how beautiful it was.

After meeting up with the group, we were running a little behind. My first meeting with the group's leader, JD, was less than encouraging as he didn't seem to think I was supposed to be there. At the time, I was a bit taken aback by it, offended really, but perhaps he was right.

Wasting no time we hit the Clingmans Dome Bypass Trail. The group starts off like a bat out of hell as we climb. The views were unbelievable! Unfortunately, every time I would stop for a quick pic, I was being left behind more and more. At least Eddie and another fellow hiker, Jennifer, were hanging back with me, at least for the time being.

I was immediately aware that this wasn't my idea of hiking. To me, if you're not taking the time to enjoy the beauty and peace of where you are, then you could just as well be walking anywhere. I want to see the trail, take pictures and breathe in the magnificence of if all. Don't get me wrong, the group was great. Just eons beyond my comfort zone. They were hiking 3 plus miles per hour. Much too fast for my taste or my abilities.

Still, I'm here and I tried keeping up as we merged onto the AT and down towards Silers Bald. This section of the AT is mostly downhill and really is an enjoyable hike as I've talked about before. So many breathtaking views from either side of the trail.

Honestly, I was starting to feel a little robbed. So many remarkable views and no time to soak them in. But I didn't want to be holding everyone up so on I went... as fast as I could.

At about four miles the trail takes a slight upturn as we made it to the junction with Welch Ridge Trail. I was already trailing behind and again my abilities are questioned. Rightly so, I suppose. But when I took this hike on and even before we started hiking at 7:30, it was said that we were to average 2.5 mph. Fine. I can do that. I've done that. That is not how it went. Not even close.

Anyway, Welch Ridge continues more or less flat for about a mile before descending down to the junction with Jonas Creek Trail about a mile and a half later, We're still moving like the mountains are on fire as the trail ran flat for the next mile and a half before heading up brutally for the next mile after that. And that's where I hit the wall. All the trying to keep up speed hiking caught up to me and I was spent. At 10 and a quarter miles into a 20+ mile hike, I'd used up all my energy. Not good. And I'm not enjoying this. A perfectly beautiful day hiking in the greatest place on earth and I'm miserable. Damn. What have I gotten my fool self into?

The next mile and half was down and up. I'm walking along with Dawn and Eddie at this point when Dawn tripped and took a nasty fall hitting her head. After helping her up, she was good to go. Tough woman. Still, I think she knew it was time to slow down a bit and I was more than happy with that because I was barely keeping up with her as it was. Eventually she ran off and left me when the uphills came. Eddie stuck with me but I was struggling bad when we finally reached the junction with Bear Creek Trail. Here the group breaks in two. Most went on to a side trail for lunch while three of us had had enough of the speed. At the junction, we had lunch and headed on down Bear Creek on our own. It was just me, a young man named Brain with a swollen ankle and Dawn, battered and bruised from her falls. At this point we hiked down the trail at a much more human pace. Bear Creek is a beautiful trail especially with all the fall colors. Brian and Dawn made for good company.

Bear Creek is completely down hill for all of its 5.9 miles. The fallen leaves hide the roots and rocks under foot so tripping was plentiful all day. I'd already blown out my left hiking shoe somewhere in the first several miles tripping over something.

About half way down, the rest of the group caught up with us and we continued down together for a spell but soon separated again. Now, Eddie had joined back up with us wounded misfits. When we met back up with the others, there had been a accident. Somehow, JD had gotten poked in the eye with his hiking pole. There was blood everywhere. It looked bad. Really bad. It was here I learned that Bill, another group member, is a doctor. He was able to examine the eye and determine the eyeball looked unharmed but JD still needed an ER asap. So we all kept hiking. Its amazing that JD was able to continue with one eye while the other was still bleeding badly. Not only that but he was still faster than the rest of us. Pretty sure he's not human. Six miles to go.

When we reached the Lakeshore Trail, we had 2.9 miles to go and we begin an uphill climb. I didn't know what to expect from this trail but soon realized it was a steady climb. As I reached reached the junction with Whiteoak Branch Trail, I couldn't take anymore. I was so exhausted. I'd been walking solo for a while here when Eddie came along to hike the rest the way out with me. At this point, I was doubling over in pain from my back, my legs and my feet were as sore as they had ever been... and I was completely physically and mentally drained. I was also out of water. I guess in my exhaustion, I'd drank much more than I had realized. With 2 miles to go, I felt like a dead man. Eddie shared some water with me and a ways on we ran into another friendly club member named Rusty who was kind enough to give me a whole bottle of water. I hope my gratitude showed because I was deeply thankful.

Every step was painful. The last mile and a half was mostly uphill and the struggle of a lifetime. Without Eddie there with me, I doubt I could have made it. I just wanted to lay down and die. Every fiber of my being was screaming out in agony. This was hell. In my mind, not only did I want off this God forsaken trail, but I never wanted to see another trail in life. I'm done. I quit. Let. Me. Die.

But Eddie was full of encouragement. He was sticking with me so I kept going a little at a time. His patience is remarkable.

When the trail finally leveled out we were almost done. A little less than a mile to go. Without the uphill climb, I was able to keep a steady, albeit extremely slow, pace to the end where we reached the road to nowhere and the tunnel. Walking through the tunnel was cool and the surroundings were typically spectacular. I've never been so relieved to be done with a hike. Walking out of the other side of that tunnel was literally like walking out of hell into paradise. I've never felt so beaten and accomplished at the same time.

In the end, I did what I set out to do. I finished the hike. I finished it in about eight hours and forty five minutes. It was presented as a ten hour hike 7am to 5pm. We started at 7:30 and I finished just after 4. Yet, somehow, I walked away feeling like I failed. I guess group hiking isn't going to work for me. I gotta have fun with this 900 miles or its not worth doing. I may be counting miles but I'm also stopping along the way at every scenic view or whatever else catches my eye.

Still, as I write this, I'm already looking back at it as a positive trip. I learned a few hard (extremely hard) lessons. Made a few new friends and overcame complete and utter exhaustion. What may have looked like a weak attempt to some was one hell of an accomplishment for me. I can live with that.

TRAIL REVIEW

The Appalachian Trail - 3.8 miles
Welch Ridge Trail - 6.3 miles
Bear Creek Trail - 5.9 miles
Forney Creek Trail - .4 mile
Lakeshore Trail - 2.9 miles

Wanna hike the 900 without getting lost? Start by checking out the book Day Hiker's Guide To All The Trails In The Smoky Mountains by Elizabeth L. Etnier.

For more pictures of my hikes, check out the Smoky Mountain Hikertrash facebook page.

Cataloochee Divide

Hike #26 : November 3, 2013

13.2 miles
4.9 new miles
352.0 total overall miles

244.7 total miles of 800.8


I mentioned in my post about The Hemphill Bald Loop that our first attempt at finding Hemphill was an utter disaster. Still, I realize now, that I never actually counted the hike or the miles toward my goal. I suppose I just wanted to forget the whole damn thing. But, what the hell, its almost been a whole year since it happened and, in hindsight, it really wasn't that bad a day...

You ever have one of those days that just starts with so much bad mojo that you know you'd be better served just hiding under a rock somewhere? Well, this was that kind of day.

It began with a heavy dose of marital distress. For future reference, it may not be the best idea to throw on the ol' backpack and go hiking in the middle of a... uh, disagreement with the significant other. So I guess that was strike one.

Still, I met up with Eddie and we were on our way. Aside from my phone blowing up with expletives and threats of bodily harm, the drive was uneventful until we reached Hemphill Road. A twisting turning road that eventually gave way to gravel rising deeper and deeper into banjo country. Just as we were about to give up and turn around we saw the Purchase Road sign. The gate was open and we drove on to the next gate that was closed and locked. D'oh.

We park and start preparing for the hike. Eddie asks if I had programed the trail into my GPS. I always do. Except this time. You see, all that marital mumbo jumbo from the morning was just carried over from the previous day so I never got around to quiet time on the computer routing the hike. Ah, no matter. We know where we're going, right? What could go wrong? Strike two.

Since the gate was closed, we had to walk up a gravel road for 2 miles. That's 2 miles we hadn't planned on and 4 miles added to our hike. It wasn't so bad other than walking directly into sunlight and being on a road is never the best hiking scenario.

Still, we finally made it to the Appalachian Highlands Learning Center and wow... just wow.

The views from the learning center are amazing. I have no idea who works here or when they're even here or what they do but what an office view. Fantastic!

If we had turned around and went home from here, it'd been a better day. But we didn't. We headed off to the trailhead. The trail went in two directions. We basically used an educated guess which way we needed to go and went. We hiked down for a spell and came to a junction. I honestly cannot remember what the trail sign said exactly but we took a right turn. Strike three.

Evidently, I took a picture of the trail sign (below) where we went wrong. Although, honestly, I still don't know what the hell SWAG is and its entirely possible we had already made a wrong turn before we even got here.

Still, as we went along, it was a nice downhill hike in early winter with leaves all around as we made our way. It was such a nice day and the pleasant trail and easy trail were almost clearing the clouds and anger out of mind. It did seem odd though that we kept going downhill. Not that that alone would cause any alarms because lets be honest, the Smokies go up and down no matter where you go. Still, something just didn't seem right.

We finally came to a bit of an opening that kinda sorta made us feel like we were getting somewhere.

There was a small shelter of sorts and a breathtaking view. We hung out here for a little while and even discussed whether we were where we were supposed to be. At this point we had no idea where we were. We just didn't know that.

From here, we continued on downhill. My mind is jumbled from all the events of the day and I'm growing more concerned and frankly, irritated about why we aren't there yet. And there's that nagging feeling that we're lost. Then we start passing houses. Seriously? Houses? That didn't seem right at all. But the trail does run along the Park border so... maybe? Eddie kept saying something didn't seem right. I agreed. And yet, we kept going. 

When we start coming up on a road, we finally get out the GPS and try to figure out where the bloody hell we are. Hmmm... that road up there is Cove Creek Road. Let's have a look at the map. Yep. We just hiked 4.6 miles in the wrong fucking direction. That's just great. Now we have to turn around and hike up that very same 4.6 miles to get back to the learning center where we came from. At this point I am done. I no longer want to be here and my spirit is broke. That made the hike back all that much more painful. Losing it mentally makes for a really bad time. And that's what it was from here on out.

Honestly, the trail itself is a good one and doing a car drop and hiking down to the road would make for a great day of hiking. The views from the Appalachian Highlands Learning Center alone are amazing and well worth the trip. 

In the end, for me, it was just a bad day. Not the trails fault. Hell, I can blame Eddie for us getting lost (and I do, Eddie. Yes, yes, I do) but I can only blame myself for not being prepared and not having my head in the game. And, I suppose, for losing my temper and being an ass. According to Eddie anyway. Another hard lesson learned.

TRAIL REVIEW

Cataloochee Divide Trail - 4.6 miles one way (out and back)

Wanna hike the 900 without getting lost? Start by checking out the book Day Hiker's Guide To All The Trails In The Smoky Mountains by Elizabeth L. Etnier.

For more pictures of my hikes, check out the Smoky Mountain Hikertrash facebook page.

Return to Mt. Cammerer

Hike #25 : October 5, 2014

Mt. Cammerer via The Appalachian Trail from Davenport Gap and down Chestnut Branch

12.4 miles

4.9 new miles
347.1 total overall miles

239.8 total miles of 800.8


Yesterday, I met up with Eddie and Mike for my first return to Mt. Cammerer since March of 2013. That was my first solo hike and the beginning of this wonderful adventure to hike the 900. (You can read about all my mistakes and mishaps on that first hike here.)

We met at the Big Creek Ranger station, dropped a car and headed to the Tennessee/North Carolina border and the beginning of The Appalachian Trail in Tennessee where we began our hike. Just two weeks ago, I was in shorts and short sleeves but this morning finds me in long pants and a jacket. Very nice hiking weather!

Every time I have the pleasure of stepping foot on the AT, its an almost spiritual feeling. There is just so much history and legend about it that I feel a its a honor and blessing to be there.

And so we begin. The trail is well used and maintained and wastes no time getting serious as the incline is immediate and steep. Eddie refers to this as a moderate trail but as we know, he is inhuman. It is, in fact, a strenuous trail. The first 1.2 miles climb around 900 feet before leveling out about .3 mile past the junction with the Davenport Gap Shelter to the right. Its a beautiful morning, although the clouds and fog are still hanging heavy in the air. The trail is magnificent...

At 1.9 miles, we pass the junction to the Chestnut Branch Trail. We'll be taking this trail down, but for now we continue on towards Mt. Cammerer. Right around the two mile mark, the trail again heads up. From here we climb over 2,000 feet in the next 3 miles. Its a really tough climb at points but it didn't seem as hard as the last time when I hiked up Low Gap to the AT. Then there's the views along the way peeking out from behind the trees. The fall colors are starting to show!

At around 3 miles, we come to the junction to the Lower Mount Cammerer Trail to the right. About 1.3 miles beyond that, we arrive at the massive rock that towers over the trail. A short climb up on this rock offers a spectacular view.

There's a lot of steps on this section of the AT. Most seemed spaced far enough apart to be not so intrusive. That changed in the final mile up. The trail gets a little steeper and the steps are coming one after the other. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not fond of lifting my sore ass legs up on all these steps. But you do what you gotta do! At 5.2 miles in, we reach the junction with the Mount Cammerer Trail.

The next .6 miles to the tower seems a lot longer that it should. I guess a combination of anticipation and the many false summits play a part in that. But alas, the tower comes into view.

When we finally climb our way to the tower, the wind is heavy and ice cold. The views are, as always, breathtaking!

Our early start allowed us the luxury of having the place to ourselves for a while so we snap a few pics and quickly head inside out of the wind for lunch. We were soon accompanied by others including a fellow 900 hiker. We hung out for a good 45 minutes or so just sharing hiking stories before deciding to head out.

We retrace the trail all the way down to the junction with Chestnut Branch where we turn right. Chestnut Branch is immediately a very steep and rocky downhill climb. Me and Mike took turns trying to cripple ourselves tripping over as many rocks and roots as we could along the way. The last mile leveled out into an old road bed used for logging back in the 1930s. There were also several homesites in this area. We discovered a few signs of the past along the way.

The Mount Cammerer Fire Tower is without a doubt one of my favorite spots in all the Smokies. Or the world for that matter. I have to say I was disheartened at the condition of the tower itself. In just the year and a half since I was last there, it has deteriorated rapidly. The door no longer closes. The floor is buckled and even rotting around the doorway. The paint on the outside has all but flaked completely away. I really hope and pray that the Park does not let this beautiful and historic landmark fade away.

Well, that's it for my return to Cammerer. A much more successful hike this time around! A wonderful day of hiking with friends in my favorite place on Earth. Awesome.

Happy trails!


TRAIL REVIEW

Appalachian Trail - 5.2 miles
Mount Cammerer Trail - .6 mile one way (out and back)
Appalachian Trail - 3.3
Chestnut Branch Trail - 2.1 miles

Davenport Gap Shelter

Wanna hike the 900? Start by checking out the book Day Hiker's Guide To All The Trails In The Smoky Mountains by Elizabeth L. Etnier.

For more pictures of this hike, check out the Smoky Mountain Hikertrash facebook page.